post backlog #2

If you look in Google Earth, Almeria is surrounded by mysterious seas of white rectangles. These are structures built of white shade cloth for pseudo-indoor crops. I guess the white protects them from the sun. They look kind of like something to keep E.T. in quarantine. Becky thought they looked like refugee camps. Adding to the wierdness is that the countryside is full of ruins abandoned during the 20th century when people just picked up and went to the cities. Often you can't even see the ruin from a distance, but you can see the amazing growth of cacti that were apparently planted as ornamentals long ago. Most hillslopes are terraced, another vestige of recently abandoned agriculture.

A local researcher showed us around his various study sites. We were closing to turning cannibal when our hosts finally decided it was about lunch time at 4:00. This followed a hearty breakfast of toast with tomato and olive oil seven and a half hours earlier. After all that all i got was gaszpacho, and some pisto with a gross egg i didn't eat for lunch. So this long awaited meal amounted to tomatoes more or less. Later, i lobbied for pizza for dinner, and the spaniards thought two app. 12-inch pizzas was sufficient food for 4 people and figured i just didnlt know what i was asking for when I ordered two larges. Spanish people eat like children. The Mediterranean diet is just a clever way of saying starving. I wonder if its like this in Greece, Italy, or other Mediterranean nations. We insisted we were getting more food and if there was extra, well, we could eat it the next day. We ate it all, no problem. I know porky americans are in a poor position to tell other people about nutrition....but shit, these people eat nothing. Over here they don't eat the pizza directly with their hands. They put each slice on a little cardboard triangle. i don't know if they are afraid of getting their hands dirty, or the pizza dirty. i think its related to the fact that they use throwaway plastic gloves for selecting produce, and for pumping gas.

I was happy to get to see the Tabernas badlands, which I've been reading about in geeky science papers for years. This is also one of the main sites for western movies of the 60's. I hate westerns, but I like to see the sets. I used to work near similar sets near Kanab, Utah, like the Bonanza ranch for example. Many of the so-called spaghetti westerns were not shot in Italy but in Spain (Paella westerns). There is actually a place there called "Texas Hollywood", which seems to be some sort of movie set/ tourist trap. It has a typical old west main street with the saloon, etc., in addition to a Mexican pueblo, in addition to various arabesque structures. I think the nonsensical name "Texas hollywood" is indicative of something: if you asked a typical small town Almerian to tell you what they know about the United states, Texas and Hollywood are certain to be mentioned right after New York. When I move back to the states I'm going to open up a place called Paris Alps Rome, it will have all kinds of Europy shit like cathedrals and escargot. One of the study sites was a set from the young Indiana Jones television show. Literally, there's all this erosion and runoff monitoring equipment right next to a deteriorating and fake (styrofoam) mine entrance that was made for the show. I think the last crusade has some shots from here as well, maybe the high speed tank chase part with those zany Nazis up to their typical shenannigans.


When we got back to Madrid some friends invited us to an anarchist squat bar. I was skeptical, most "anarchist squats" in the states are junkie hives. This one was a derelict building that has been taken over as a community center where noone actually lives. They have a community garden (apparently on the roof), FREE spanish classes and legal assistance for immigrants (the poor kind not the united statesians, woe is me), a bike workshop, and various art projects and workshops. Again in the states, for this to work there would have to be strict no drug, no booze rules, but this place has a bar. And its cheap, and they have reggae shows there. They sell beer in "minis" which despite the diminutive name are the largest beers you can find (0.75 L, i mean this is approaching Bavaria proportions) for 3 euros. Of course one would be shared among like 5 spanish people passing it around spreading herpes and swine flu, but I like having my own big boy beer in hand and i'll just catch my own diseases thanks (in recent months i have been totally ravaged by almost every cold to come down the pike, so i'm a bit sensitive on this spit and disease sharing issue). I wish I had the insider information to know about places like this a year ago.